Home Inspector for Minnesota,Minneapolis,MN,St Paul,MN and surrounding areas.
Home Inspector, Air Quality Testing, Radon Testing, Thermal Imaging & Mold Testing, Moisture Detection Testing in Minneapolis, St.Paul MN.& surrounding areas. Buyer/Seller Residential, small commercial inspections by an ASHI Qualified Inspector also a Residential Appraiser.
Reliable Enterprises Home Inspections & Appraisals
Ross Brown ACI 612-991-6242
Minnesota ASHI Certified Home Inspector serving Minneapolis, St. Paul, MN & surrounding areas.
Offered: Mold Testing/Asbestos/Lead Paint Testing/Air Quality (I have 2 pumps) Thermal Imaging/Tramex Moisture Detector used in all my inspections
Make sure your inspector is Certified and Insured!
See a sample report (click on report). Check out my Fees and References!!
I have a 5 star rating. I accept all major credit cards. A+ Rating with BBB
Please click on References and read comments from many past clients
I take the time to visually inspect and evaluate every visible and reasonably accessible item in the home that is related to the structural, mechanical, electrical, and plumbing systems (not just the representative sampling required to meet minimum industry standards of practice). I will document and take the time to explain minor issues as well as investigate and explain major issues as needed for your understanding and will do so in plain and simple language without the drama, and will provide you with a detailed comprehensive electronic report that I email that day, and a hard copy report I mail out with extra information about houses and how long you should expect items to last. I will also take the time to identify important equipment and features of the home that you need to know about, along with general maintenance needs and suggestions to ensure the long term integrity and value of your home.
Member of ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors). I received the ACI accreditation for my length of time and quality inspections thru ASHI.
Member of BBB (Better Business Bureau). A+ Rating.
Member of MSHI (Minnesota Society of Home Inspectors).
Registered Property Appraiser by the State of MN.
Member of MAAR (Minnesota Realtors Association). Supra Key privilege. Reliable Enterprises has the privilege of using a Supra Key. What that means is I can get access to any house on the MLS without having a realtor there. This makes easy access and no hassle when it is time for an inspection.
Tramex Moisture Detector / Mold Testing and Indoor Air Quality: This enables me to look for moisture without invasion of walls, floors and ceilings. I can tell you what percentage of moisture is hidden in these places. The only way anyone would know this is with a moisture detector.
If mold is found, I can tell you what kind it is and if you are just not feeling well- have an indoor air quality test and find out what is in your air that you breathe everyday.
A thorough home inspection will generally take between three to four hours to complete. A full report 14-18 pages of the inspection with related color photos will be emailed that night and a report booklet will be mailed to you. Extra information about how long items last, what to do for certain seasons are included in the report. The report will be very detailed, and will provide an unbiased opinion on the home condition. I encourage questions from my clients at any time, and this includes before the inspection, during the scheduled appointment, and also days or weeks after the inspection is completed. See above and click on report to view a sample report and to read more about the report I send to you.
Residential Appraisals in the 7 counties with accurate appraisal with fast turn around time.
The American Society of Home Inspectors Check Off List
According to the Society, a home inspection is a visual assessment of a homes structure and systems. In some cases, in practice at least, an inspection should extend beyond the visual to the operational, but an inspection should look at the following which is based in part on ASHI Standards of Practice and in part on experience with dozens of inspectors in several states. For an excellent description of what ASHI Standards specify that inspectors do or not need to do, take its visual tour at www.ashi.org. Our suggestions that go beyond these Standards of Practice might be used as a guide when interviewing a potential inspector.
The Structure
An inspector will inspect entry ways, foundations, siding and porches looking for such symptoms of trouble as sagging roof lines, gaps in or damage to the siding, porches pulling away from the building, obvious signs of rot or insect damage (although this is not a substitute for a pest inspection) settlement, certain types of cracks in foundations. Inspectors will usually probe the cill or rim (the wooden support that sits on the foundation and into which the framing is fastened) and framing where it is exposed, to test for soft or hollow spots caused by rot or pests.
The Exterior
An exterior inspection will include a visual assessment of decks, balconies, eaves, soffits and fascias. An inspector will look at the grading of the land around the house for obvious drainage problems, and check walkways and driveways for apparent deterioration or safety concerns. He will also visually inspect vegetation surrounding the house for obvious problems such as the intrusion of roots near the foundation or buried utilities or overgrowth that might promote excess humidity or contribute to security issues. Electric garage door openers should be checked to confirm they are in compliance with current safety standards.
The exterior inspection is not expected to include outbuildings or fences, or any evaluation of hydraulic or geologic conditions.
Roofing Inspection
Some inspectors will get up on any roof, some will tackle low slopes, and others rely on binoculars to check portions of the roof visible from the ground or will inspect lower parts of roofs from upper floor windows. The age of a roof might be as good an indicator of its condition as an actual visual check and a good inspector can usually estimate the real life of a 20 or 25 year roof in a given climate or on a particular type of construction. Where safely possible, an inspector should also report on roof drainage systems, flashings, skylights, chimneys, and roof penetrations (for vents and flues).
Plumbing Inspection
An inspection should consist of testing the interior water supply and distribution system including water pressure, water heating equipment (estimating age and approximate time to replacement) and the appropriateness of vents, flues, and chimneys. Most inspectors will flush toilets to check for leaks and run all faucets to assess water pressure and the immediacy and volume of available hot water.
Electrical System Inspection
The inspector should check for over current protections, grounding, and the presence of any aluminum wiring (a serious fire hazard and banned for many years in most states). Most inspectors remove the face of the electrical box if it is safe to do so. The inspector should also check a representative number of switches and outlets in the house and note the adequacy of smoke detectors if the state does not require a separate inspection by the local fire department before the deed transfers.
Heating and Air Conditioning Systems
No matter the time of year the furnace should be tested by turning up the thermostat and checking the response. Air conditioning cannot be checked if the ambient outdoor temperature is below a certain point. If the energy source is oil an inspector will check the condition of the tank and any visible lines running from the tank to the furnace. Some inspectors will run an efficiency check on the furnace for an additional charge.
Home Interior:
An inspection should include a visual scan of floors, walls and ceilings for signs of water intrusion, or sagging. Stairways and railings will be checked for safety and code compliance and a sample of windows and doors inspected for condition and ease of operation. ASCI suggests that inspectors look at countertops and a representative number of the kitchen cabinet interiors and drawers for condition and integrity. The basement should be checked for indications of previous water intrusion in addition to signs of structural problems.
Ventilation
Poor ventilation can lead to rot, mold, poor air quality or excessive energy consumption. An inspector should check insulation and vapor barriers in unfinished areas of the attic and in the foundation area and look for the presence and operation of any mechanical ventilation systems in the attic and other high humidity areas such as kitchens and bath.
Appliances
An inspector will usually run a dishwasher through a full cycle and will check stove burners and oven to make sure each is operating properly. If other appliances such as washer, dryer, or microwave are to be included in the purchase these will also be checked to make sure they are at least in operating condition.
Fireplaces
Fireplaces, particularly in older homes, are a frequent source of problems. Inspectors should check for the integrity of the flue, proper draft, any blockages in the chimney (even a birds nest can be a major problem), and will visually inspect, as much as possible, the exterior of the chimney for damage to bricks, pointing, and flashing.
Links
Is it mold? I have a tester that will find out if it is or not.
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Home Inspector doing home inspections and Radon Testing in MN :
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Minnesota does not have any licensing for home inspectors. That means anyone can hang out a sign saying they a home inspector. After my schooling and after turning over my inspection reports, I joined ASHI. To become an ASHI member you have to have a minimum of inspections checked by ASHI to make sure the report is up to their standard. Then there are 3 tests to pass and a yearly requirement of continuing education courses. I joined ASHI because it is the hardest organization to be a member of and it is the most trusted and respected home inspector society. My inspections are around 3-4 hours and my report takes 1-1/2 hours to prepare and email that day and mail out the next.
EAlso included in my report is information about what to do to your house for changing seasons and I give estimated costs to fix or replace items/appliances/patios/decks etc. This information helps you know what to plan for costs for tomorrow.
Report emailed that day, the report booklet mailed out the next.
Ventilation
Poor ventilation can lead to rot, mold, poor air quality or excessive energy consumption. An inspector should check insulation and vapor barriers in unfinished areas of the attic and in the foundation area and look for the presence and operation of any mechanical ventilation systems in the attic and other high humidity areas such as kitchens and bath.
Appliances
An inspector will usually run a dishwasher through a full cycle and will check stove burners and oven to make sure each is operating properly. If other appliances such as washer, dryer, or microwave are to be included in the purchase these will also be checked to make sure they are at least in operating condition.
Fireplaces
Fireplaces, particularly in older homes, are a frequent source of problems. Inspectors should check for the integrity of the flue, proper draft, any blockages in the chimney (even a birds nest can be a major problem), and will visually inspect, as much as possible, the exterior of the chimney for damage to bricks, pointing, and flashing.
Approved MN Home inspector doing home inspections in Hennepin, Carver, Wright, Anoka, Ramsey, Washington and Dakota counties Albertville, Andover, Annadale, Anoka, Appleton, Apple Valley, Arden Hills, Bayport, Becker, Belle Plaine, Blaine, Blooming Prairie, Bloomington, Brooklyn Park, Brooklyn Center, Buffalo, Huntsville ,Cannon Falls, Carver, Champlain, Chanhassen, Chaska, Chisago City, Columbia Heights, Coon Rapids, Corcoran, Cottage Grove, Crystal, Deephaven, Delano, Dexter, Eagan, East Bethel, Eden Prairie, Edina, Elk River, Excelsior, Farmington, Forest City, Fridley, Glencoe, Golden Valley, Goodhue, Greenfield, Ham Lake, Hanover,Hastings, Hopkins, Hugo, Independence, Inver Grove Heights, Isanti, Jordan, Lake Elmo, Lake St. Croix Beach, Lilydale, Little Canada, Litchfield, Long Lake, Loretto, Mahnomen, Mahtomedi, Maple Grove, Maple Lake, Maple Plaine, Maplewood, Marine on St. Croix,Mayer,Medicine Lake, Medina, Mendota, Minneapolis, Minnetonka, Minnetonka Beach, Minnetrista, Montevideo, Monticello, Mound, Mounds View, New Brighten, New Germany, New Hope, New Market, Newport, New Prague, Nicolllet, North Branch, North Oaks, North St. Paul, Norwood Young America, Oakdale, Orono, Otsego, Plymouth, Prior Lake,Ramsey, Red Wing, Richfield, Robbinsdale, Rockford, Rogers, Roseville, St. Anthony, St. Bonifacius, St. Louis Park, St. Micheal, St. Paul, Savage, Shakopee, Sherburn, Shoreview, Shorewood, South St. Paul, Spring Lake Park, Spring Park, Stillwater, Tonka Bay, Vadnais Heights, Waconia, Watertown, Wayzata, West St. Paul, West Point, White Bear Lake, Willmar, Woodbury, Zimmerman.
Fall is the time to prepare your house for Winter, before the temperatures drop below freezing.
Follow these simple guidelines to winterize your home and save money on utilities. Inside Your Home
Have your furnace serviced to ensure it's working efficiently and not emitting carbon monoxide .
Clean permanent furnace filters and replace paper or disposable filters.
Replace the batteries in smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
If you have a wood stove or fireplace, have your chimney swept thoroughly.
It should be cleaned before the soot build up reaches one-fourth inch thickness inside the chimney flue.
Check your water heater for leaks and maintain proper temperature setting (120 degrees recommended by Department of Energy).
On older water heaters with less insulation, for every 10 degrees Fahrenheit you lower the temperature, you save 6 percent of your water heating energy.
Call your home inspector or utility for an energy audit, particularly of the attic to see if insulation needs to be added or air leaks sealed.
This is the most significant area of heat loss in many homes.
Check all windows and doors for air leaks. Install storm windows and putty, caulk or add weather stripping as needed.
If you have an air to air heat exchanger (HRV) clean its air intake, filters and core.